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A Backpacker’s Guide To Travel In Kutch

Kutch was never on my agenda, and little did I even know about it — except for the fact that savvy tourists often fly here in winter for spotting the rare migratory birds. But for a backpacker, Kutch had very little to offer.

My fear (of Kutch not being a backpacking destination) moreover started haunting as soon as I arrived in Kutch. Local transport here suddenly became a rarity, and the long distance(s) from one tourist attraction to the other — totally unbelievable. I was spending more time standing on roads while trying to hitchhike, than seeing places.

To disappoint you, even more, remember that during peak tourist season, finding an accommodation may moreover become a challenge, have you not done an advance booking.

But despite all challenges, Kutch offers beautiful highlights. And the deeper you explore the region, the better it turns out to be. Sharing some of my first impressions of backpacking in Kutch, to help you plan your holiday better.

Great Roads But A Disappointing Transport

If there is one thing that impressed me most about Kutch is its perfect roads. Even the narrowest streets leading to an unsung village were found in a perfect condition. But then, the disappointing public transport system and the long distances was something that made backpacking in Kutch a challenging experience. Every time I had to travel from one town to the other — even if they were only 60 km away from each other, I had to spare at least 6 hours.

Moreover, public transport – right from the state government buses to a rickety Chakda (the local motorcycle rikshaws of Kutch) – never ran on time. It may also be possible that the scheduled bus may never arrive the destination (as it happened to me a few times) especially if the clock has gone past 3 in the afternoon.

In Kutch, Be Prepared To Hitchhike

I think it is because the public transport in Kutch is so poor, people are accustomed to hitchhiking – and even offering lifts. Even though I looked no less alien to local people – with a 50 ltr rucksack and an action camera flashing in one hand, no one felt shy of stopping for me. From big lorries to private cars, to motorbikes – I travelled in everything. And everything equally worked.

At times I moreover found that hitchhiking was perhaps a better and faster option to travel inside Kutch than waiting for long hours for buses. I remember it took me more than 7 hours to reach Dholavira from Chobari Village in Kutch (a distance of nearly 120kms) as I relied on public transport. On my way back, when I hitchhiked, I covered the same distance in less than 4 hours. So hitchhiking is apparently going to be your rescue option, if you’re going to be backpacking in Kutch.

Local People In Kutch Make Backpacking Easy

Kutchi people turned out to be one of the most hospitable communities I’ve ever come across while travelling in India. Almost every villager I met opened their doors for me and offered a smile. Some even offered tea and proposed to a stay in their house, should I wished to do so. During my entire two weeks of travelling inside Kutch and the little Rann (a part of which is in Kutch and a part in Saurasthra), I met unaccountable number of people who were willing to go out of way to make me feel welcome – whether it was about waiting with me for hours, until I found a transport, or driving me 30 km in a completely different direction to drop me somewhere.

If by far, I always believed that people in Himachal Pradesh are nicer and kinder than you may find anywhere else in India, from now on, I’d like to list Kutchi people in the same category.

The Heart Of Kutch Lies In Its Villages

One of the best charms of travelling in Kutch is exploring its small and hidden villages. Though of course, it’s pretty impossible to sightsee them on foot, you can always rent a motorbike in Bhuj, or from one of the locals, by befriending them and building an assurance. I took someone’s 100cc Honda motorbike for a day, and used it to explore the nearby villages. And it turned out that almost every village in the area had its own local art and crafts form. I explored Copper Bell art, Lacquered Wood art, and even Rogan Painting – a local art form that is almost exclusive to a village called Nirona and has even made its way to the White House as a gift to President Obama from Prime Minister Modi.

Don’t Travel All The Way To Dhordo Tent City Only To See White Desert

One of the prime interests of people visiting Kutch is to see the White Desert. Walking on those crystal salt beds and watching the sun rise and set is indeed a magical and a lifetime experience. But be aware of the fact that you can access the White Desert from pretty much the entire Kutch, for it stretches endlessly to a 10,000 sq metres distance. So don’t bother going all the way to Dhordo or attending the Rann Utsav, and rather explore it from any other location, as convenient to you – because no matter where you see it from, it’s going to look the same.

Don’t Miss The Barren Crack-Land in Little Rann of Kutch

Kutch is popular for two things and moreover offers two very distinct natural phenomenon: one of them is the White Desert and the other one is the barren crack-land of Little Rann of Kutch (or LRK). Spread around an area of five thousand square kilometres, also known as The Wild Ass Sanctuary, LRK gives you an exceptional landscape – of a barren crack land. Here you can also learn about the process of salt farming and even spot some beautiful migratory birds. It’s in LRK where Mahatma Gandhi moreover concluded his ‘Dandi Yatra’ during British Raj. Getting into LRK is however, restricted, as it comes under the jurisdiction of Indian wildlife, and one requires to obtain a permit to trespass. But if you’re visiting one of the few temples located inside LRK, one of which is VacchRaj temple, where I stayed, you can pretty much access it without having a need to obtain a forest permits.

Useful Tips For Visiting Kutch

I would recommend making Bhuj your base and do day trips to a few other places of interest from Bhuj.

If you’re visiting Kutch region during the peak tourist season (i.e between November and February) book your accommodation in advance.

From Bhuj, three easy day-trips I tried, and can moreover recommend are:

  1. Exploring the local villages and Kutchi Art form. For this, I’ll recommend visiting Nirona Village (4 to 8-hour tour).
  2. Visiting the White Desert near the tent city of Dhordo (4 to 8 hour tour).
  3. Exploring the Ghost Town of Lakhpat (4 to 8 hour tour).

Have more questions? Leave a comment below. 

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After my couple of years of corporate career, I left that lifestyle behind, and with it, everything that didn't fit in a backpack. I've learned that this world is too big (and too interesting!) to spend your life working at one place, and that's what inspires me to remain footloose and fancy-free for the rest of my life!

44 Comments

  1. Urvi Kodiganti says

    I am in Bhuj right now. I had decided to cover Nirona and Rudramata today but I made a mistake and got down at Rudramata, which had one mandir and one boy’s school/hostel and nothing else for 8kms. I don’t usually travel alone but I wish I hade read this post a little earlier. I got shit scared. 3 people misguided me wih the public transport but I do understand it was not their fault. I would like to know if you have some more pictures of Nirona because I have come here for architectural visit of traditional artisan village. I would like to see if it is worth it . I would definitely try to go there once again.

    • Hey Urvi, It’s been long since I visited Nirona. Finding more pictures in the database can be tough. But I assure you will find many interesting buildings to capture in Nirona Village. IT’s certainly a highlight for an architecture lover. Also, try and Lakhpat if you can.

  2. Rohit says

    Hi,
    Thanks for the information.
    I was planning to go to Rann Utsav, but thanks for your post. I will give it a miss and explore the way you did. Let me know if it is possible and if it is safe to stay in a tent (with sleeping bag)

    • it should be okay (if you’re asking for cold) to sleep in a sleeping bag with -5 degree temprature. January can be a little brutal in Kutch. Days are warm enough but nights are unbeliebly cold.

  3. Aniket Ankam says

    hey Dev is it advisable to travel solo to rann of kutch? In terms of budget or it will be little bit expensive as a solo? I am planning for Ekal ka rann (chota rann) and heard that it’s shitty expensive during winters.

    • If you’ll find a place online and book it, yes it’s going to be super expensive. If you’re going to find a place there as a tourist, yes it’s going to be super expensive again. But if you know the art of making local friends and find good deals, you can find a way. Sorry for a confusing answer but that’s how it is. Obvious tourist places charge a lot in entire Kutch because they’ve only 3-4 months to do business in an year. Read my other blogs on Gujarat to get some insider tips on how to backpack on a budget.

  4. Anjum says

    Hi. Nice description. Can you name a few other villages (or places) from where we can see the white desert. Also, pls let me know what is the ideal time to visit Rann to see the white desert? Is december fine?

  5. Me and my friends think about where to go for travel to Gujarat. Then we googled and reached your post where we see Kutch is the best place for travel and lots of things in kutch like the white desert, beaches and much more. So we plan a trip to Kutch. Thanks for sharing.

  6. Hi Dev,

    You have given superb info. I have a few questions. I plan to shoot the night sky from the Great Rann of Kutch. The Rann Utsav doesn’t beckon me. Neither do the staying facility of the tents at Rann Utsav. I need a place to put my bags away and click stars at night.

    Q1) Is here any accommodation in the nearby village of Khavda or around Great Rann of Kutch? It would be great if you can share contacts of villagers providing home stay near the White Desert.

    Q2) Is there any permit to be taken to stay overnight in the open shooting stars? Will they shoo me away? Are there any entry & exit timings to Great Rann of Kutch?

    Thank you.

  7. Hi Dev, I was going through your Gujarat posts as I am planning an insanely short trip to Kutch on the first weekend of March. Just like you I am stuck at transportation and pricey accommodation. You mentioned Chobari in this article, I intend to visit Chobari so that I can travel to Ekal ka Rann AFTER it is dark (the rann near Dhordo is shut after 7 PM, in march sunset will happen at around 7 PM itself). Any chances you stayed at Chobari? If yes please tell me where. Right now I contacted a camp site, but they would wrap up action by March. The other two are too costly to afford. However, I read somewhere one can stay at Ekal Mata ka Temple. If you know anything about this please share. It would be such a life saver, rather money saver.

    • Thanks for contacting Tania. Have connected you to Abhay (in the email) who runs a campsite near Chobari. Hope it helps 🙂

  8. Marshall says

    Hi Dev,
    Hope you’re doing well. Great post, however it was too late for me to read. We (2+1-child of 2 yrs) had already booked our stay at Rann for 3 nights which I feel is a bit bad idea now after going through your experience. Since we have no option than to spend our stay at Dhordo now, could you please suggest how best can we avail this trip in terms of transport and covering few places like Kala Dungar, Vijay Vilas Palace, Narayan Sarovar, Lakhpat, Little Rann and few villages by staying in a resort at Dhordo. Also,appreciate your suggestion as early as possible as we are about to leave in few hours.

    Thanks in Advance,
    Marshall.

  9. I am intending to visit Kutch in December month, and going to plan 3 days stay in Bhuj and want to get the experience of Great Rann on full moon night. I might then want to take a car on rent to Mathura and return from that point. Now! I am bit confused and would require your assistance in clearing my doubt. I would like to ask you that Which spot is better to visit to get experience of the salt desert on full moon night – Dhordo or Dholavira?

    • you wont find white ran in Dholavira, but on the way to dholavira. Dhordo is totally touristy and gives you a brown rann rather than white rann because of all the mud people carry there with them. I’d recommend white Rann near Ekal Ka Rann (near village Chobari).

  10. Hey Dev,
    Everytime I go through your blog I feel like reading your posts over and over again. They are fantastic and your writing skills draw more attention. Kutch was never on my bucket list but the way you have described it and the guide has really transformed my mindset. One day I will be there for sure!

    • Thanks for a motivating comment Pooja. Didn’t know I write so well, lol.
      Thanks again for writing. Cheers!

  11. Darshana says

    Hey Dev,

    Your blog is wonderful. I am myself a Kutchi and felt really good to read about my homeland and people. Thank you on behalf of everyone here. Great Work and keep going.

  12. Hi dev, I’m on a bus to bhuj as of now and this is an absolutely spontaneous trip, first one all alone on my own too. And Stumbling upon your blog seems to be the best thing tonight, you’re absolutely rocking this page man cheers! Anyway regarding tomorrow, I’m concerned about how can I get to the rann, the white desert basically. I’m short on cash so hiring vehicles is out of option. Any other local transport means you’d like to suggest. And like you said, I’m not willing to travel all the way to dhordo to see the white desert so what other options do I have, closer to bhuj and cheaper to go to. also any suggestions regarding mandvi beach? A reply asap would be really appreciated. Thanks! Ps hope you’re having a good time travelling!

    • Pradeep Pillai says

      Hi..i am planning to visit white desert this week.. Did you get a local transport as i am also not thinking about hiring any vehicle ?

  13. Nidhi says

    Hi Dev This is fantastic. I am planning to visit Kutch from chandigarh with my parents. I am visiting from the US, so definitely bitten by the offbeat bug 🙂
    Haven’t decided # days yet but would be great if you could help with itinerary. With respect to transport, would prefer to just get a cab for the duration of our travel

  14. Pallavi says

    Hi Dev – Thanks for this blog. Quite insightful. I am planning to go around Kutch for 4 days in N2 weeks. We are a family of four (two kids aged 10 & 7) and will be hiring a car from Ahmedabad. Our initial plan was to go visit Wild Ass sanctuary in little Rann of Kutch. We are planning to stay st either Desert Courses or Eco Tour camp. Spend one day at Rann Utsav. Remaining two days cover India-Pak border, Kalo Dunger, Bhujodi, Kutch museum, Aina Mahal, etc.
    But after reading your article I have second thoughts on Rann Utsav. Could you provide other suggestions instead to cover White dessert and also maybe comment on my other plans. You talk about permit in your response to other comments on this blog. What is the permit for? Budget is not a problem. Appreciate your guidance.

  15. Hi Dev
    Here…a teacher frequent traveler looking for co-traveler if anyone traveling to Bhuj Kutch on 1ST AND 2ND NOV, 2017. if you find anyone please do refer i am reaching on 2nd at Bhuj morning by train.
    Looking forward

  16. Surendra Mannem says

    Hello Dev, I’m planning to visit Kutch in Nov 2017, definitely not for festival. i’m from Hyderabad, i have 2 complete days in Bhuj and i’m solo traveler, i have very limited budget, can you suggest me the best possible itinerary for 2 days.

    I want to explore the places in 2 wheeler is that safe, to travel alone on bike, such far.
    I tried to contact you on Facebook, but didn’t find you.

    Mine: https://www.facebook.com/nani.mannem

    Please revert.

    Thanks,

  17. Hey Dev, Nice writing style, you have informed a lot, in short! about kutch and the people there.

    I am a photographer, planning to ride with my fiancee coming December (we are marring the next year). As we have plans of shooting late in the evenings and camp at the villages over night and continue our journey.

    Could you shed some light on this please!
    Thanks in advance!

    Cheers!!
    Vinay

  18. Soumya says

    Hi Bro
    You are really Inspiring
    Bro, I’m plant Kutch on end of January…
    So my plan is to hire bike from Bhuj and make road trip to Dholavira, through Ekal Ka Rann. But Bro, I dont know where the place “Ekal Ka Rann” lies in the Map….
    Can you help me with that…
    Bro and also how best can I plan this road trip and stay for 2 days… My interest is only to witness the White Dessert… Will 2 day be enough… Can we tent anywhere in between… And how far can i expect my expense…. Please Help Bro…. Thanks a Lot…

  19. Deepshikha says

    Hi Dev,
    I am a solo traveler largely dependent on public transport. As I have come to know dhordo and those high rated tents are waste of money so I am not interested in investing in them at all. though i would like to visit the white desert. I will be staying in Bhuj so will be commuting to and fro Bhuj. What do you suggest?

    • Subhashree says

      Hi deepshikha /Dev

      I have the same question . Could any one please reply me also to my mail id below asap. I need to book hotels accordingly for december 24th

  20. Hi Dev,

    Read your article and found it very interesting, did try contacting you via Facebook messenger. Planning to visit the white desert in the first week of December. As you said and heard from the people, not too keen to stay in the desert city, Dhordo. Could you please suggest on a stay at Home, Shaam-e-sharahad. Also, if I can see Ekal Ka ran. I will have 2 days there and not keen to see other places in Kutch like Mandavi or palaces, please suggest and guide.

    Thanks in advance.

    • Hi Meeta, not sure about Shaam-e-sharahad as I never stayed there. But here’s the thing… Since White Rann is a patch of big white desert and looks the same from every direction, it doesn’t matter where you stayed. I’d say, to avoid travelling too much (since you’ve only two days) visit Ekal Ka Rann only and from there, try exploring LRK (because LRK is closer from Ekal Ka Rann than from Dhordo). I will connect you to a person who runs a guest house near Ekal Ka Rann, he may help you. Abhay:9033038810 | The guy runs motorbiking tours in Gujarat and Jammu | Feel free to say my name, he knows me well.
      Enjoy 🙂

  21. Preeti krishnan says

    Hello
    I am planning a trip to Kutch in December 2017 for 3-4 days. Could you suggest a possible itinerary. I’m looking forward to experience the rann utsav and visiting dholavira apart from the white desert experience. Also what is lakhpat about if planning to visit there?

    • Hey Preeti, Lakhpat is a town of riches before Gujarat earthquake of 1819. Today, it’s a mere Ghost Town. I’d suggest you do a day trip to Lakhpat from Bhuj, it’s a lovely place to visit. Other than that, do not miss the White Desert, it’s a highlight, you won’t find such massive white secret anywhere else in the world. Rather, skip Rann Utsav, it’s a tourist trap, organised by bureaucrats and rich travel agents, covertly making a lot of money, in the name of promoting local tourism and art. The prices in Rann Utsav are unbelievable. Rather, explore white desert from some other spot, while staying in a smaller hotel/homestay and benefiting the locals directly. But whatever you decide, I’d recommend please, “DONT MISS WHITE DESERT!”

      • Preeti krishnan says

        Hello
        Thanks for the reply! I also wanted to ask about little rann and the wildlife sanctuary there. Considering I have three days at hand how would you suggest to distribute the time between white desert and lakhpat and wildlife sanctuary/ dholavira?

  22. Akash says

    Hi Dev

    Thanks for this excellent post for someone planning a trip to the bordertown on a budget. I am planning a trip with my friend to Bhuj reaching there on Feb 3rd. I intend to return from Jodhpur, Rajasthan on 8th. If you gave travelled in that part, can you suggest a cheap way to getting to Jodhpur from Bhuj. I understand it is quite a distance, I am open to making stops on the way and make the trip more interesting.

    • Hey Akash, there’s a train from Bhuj to Delhi which passes through Abu Road or perhaps through Pali as well (or somewhere closer). It leaves three days a week (check on IRCTC), you can go from Bhuj to Pali or whatever other closest station it passes through (can also be Jodhpur itself, even if not Jodhpur, it would definitely be somewhere else less than 100kms away from it), in sleeper class in under 300 Rupees. Get a local bus from there. So Bhuj to Jodhpur in less than 500 rupees is very much possible. Enjoy your trip!

  23. Hi Dev

    Great read!
    I’ll be travelling solo to Kutch, tentatively reaching Bhuj on 6th Feb. I plan on hiring a bike for 3-4 days. I wish to witness the Kutch Utsav but I wasn’t keen on taking the swiss tents as there is no value for money. However, reading your other article has kinda discouraged me to attend the utsav at all. Apparently, carrying my own tent or riding back to Bhuj makes no sense because you can’t enter the utsav premise without booked accomodation?!
    Apart from the Utsav, I wish to
    1. camp out in the white desert for at least one night (11th is a full moon)
    2. since the utsav is out, experience the culture and a village home stay
    3. Cover Dholavira and some of the touristy spots around Bhuj

    What would you suggest? Also, what permits should I keep in mind regarding visiting the exterior parts and if possible, camping out

    • Yes you cannot enter Rann Utsav premise, if you haven’t booked with them.
      1) Camping in white desert is totally not allowed. Also the entire white desert is around border area, so it’s not recommended either.
      2) there aren’t many real homestays in bhuj to speak of (as you find in himalayas) but if you try, you can be invited by a local for sure.
      3) Dholavira as an archaeological site was stupid, but you’d love the 7km road (just before dholavira) that passes through white desert, specially if you’re driving.

  24. Supraja says

    Hi! I’m planning a trip to Kutch next week from Ahmedabad. I will be traveling solo and have 3 days planned for Kutch. Could you suggest things to do, places to stay, and ways to get by? Do you think I should hire a cab from Ahmedabad considering public transport is not easily available?

    • If you only have three days in hand, I’d totally recommend you arrange your transport. Either hire a motorbike to drive (because roads around Kutch are super-smooth and thus give a great biking experience) or hire a cab. For three days, it depends where you want to stay, how much is your budget. If you want it cheap, stay in Bhuj and do day tours to White Rann, Lakhpat (for some history), Mata no Math (if you’re interested in temple), Nirona Village (for some art and crafts). so one day for arts and crafts, one day for white desert, one day for history in Lakhpat can be a good itinerary.

  25. Hey Dev,
    Have 2 queries.
    I am doing a solo bike ride in Feb 10 week. So planning to go to bhuj and lookout for stay. 30 kms away from bhuj though nice, but wondering if there is within the city affordable ? And also available ? Please recommend

    Also, i am planning to go to zero point (beyond india bridge to border) by applying for permit in BSF HQ in Bhuj. Are they still giving? Any info, please pass all.

    Thanks

    • Okay, so the cheapest possible accommodation options will be in the city of Bhuj. Any offbeat farm stays or camping sites will charge a minimum of 1500 rupees per night. You can check Devpur Farmstay (which is run by Devpur Homestay), it are comparatively affordable, though I’m not sure how affordable. The homestay starts from 2500 per night.

      I did not go to zero point, but a local guy told me that they still allow you to go beyond India Bridge, but you need to obtain the permit at least 7 days in advance. Please send me a message at facebook.com/footloosedev and I’ll pass on a guy’s number you can speak to. He will give you the absolute correct info about the permit, and might also help you with a stay around Bhuj.

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