I’ve been to Varkala twice, and both times, I couldn’t deny the fact that Varkala is an amazing tourist destination. For me, the vibe here makes it the best beach destination across India.
But what also stood out to me was how leisure tourism has completely overshadowed the town’s spiritual and cultural roots. What was once a revered religious and cultural center in southern India, and held a great significance for the Hindu community, now primarily exists to entertain tourists.
In this article, I want to explore both sides of my conflicted feelings — the part of me that feels sad seeing how the growing focus on leisure tourism has diminished the town’s spiritual essence, and the other that still believes it’s the best beach town across India (honestly, I think Varkala is even better than Goa).
Later in this article, I’ll also talk about the popular and offbeat things to do in Varkala. But first, let’s discuss how the rise of leisure tourism is slowly erasing the original charm and identity of this place.
Once a refuge for wandering sadhus, Varkala today feels more like a home for Western settlers.
My First Impression of Varkala
The Dying Benares of South
While travelling in Varkala, Kerala, I realised that I often find myself discouraging the idea of frenzied, mass tourism. I’ve seen local cultures turning into commodities when religious rituals and traditional ethnic tires reduce and sanitize, to conform to tourist expectations.
Once a destination is sold as a tourism product, it starts losing its originality, which, with time, brings about nothing but yet another modern tourist destination, providing us with perfectly staged, not-so-authentic, experiences.
This is one of the prominent impacts of overtourism that we need to address before it’s too late.
I happened to visit this calm and quiet hamlet, for the first time, back in 2016. I was on a one-month trip across Kerala and came here after spending a few days in the backwaters of Alleppey.
Varkala is one of those places, which has a perfect beach and a great crowd. The only thing, however, that differentiates it from other popular holiday destinations in Kerala is its rich cultural and religious history.
But that part, unfortunately, is slowly dying.
It was less than 20 years ago when this place could be seen full of Sadhus reciting religious rituals and mantras. But today, Varkala has become nothing more than a regular tourist destination in Kerala.
It is an ideal spot for tanned Westerners to amble.
Varkala has been a popular pilgrimage destination in India (as popular as Char Dham Yatra in the Himalayas) since the 12th century.
Its two-thousand-year-old Janardhana temple stands on the cliffs overlooking the beach as if gripping the place in its purity. The Papnasham beach, which today is more popular as Varkala beach, was once known for its sacred water that was not just meant to clean the body but the mind and soul too.
“But the reality is,” I remember Madhu, a 50-something native (who runs a traditional chai shop on the north cliff in Varkala) describing it to me, “this place, it is not what it used to be, a couple of decades ago.” He has seen this town transforming from nothing to a hippy-oasis.
A half-hour conversation with him, and he shared how Varkala, which once was known as the ‘Benares of the South is now moving faster than ever to meet the demands of prejudiced tourists. Keeping up with the trend, he was found obliged to give his restaurant a new-age makeover.
Unlike today where you find yourself eating the best seafood, under the candlelights, and among a lively company of favoured Western souls, Varkala, back in the days, was just home to ardent pilgrims.
Back then, you would discover nothing but thousands of pilgrims, or dedicated sadhus, doing their rituals. Whereas today, if you explore the place – stretching its boundaries from the North Cliff to the South Cliff – all you treasure is a bunch of fancy tourists dressed in backless tops and diaphanous scarves, showing off their tan.
All this is diminishing the cultural significance that Varkala once held.
Though that’s a different thing a number of pilgrims still visit the place to perform Shraddha a ritual from the Hindu religion, performed to free the souls of lost loved ones from the cycle of rebirth and to give them eternal peace.
The Papanasam beach (also known as Varkala beach) is believed to be the most suited beach in the entire of Kerala to perform Shraddha, given its history. Having said that, most local Indians who visit this town, visit to perform Shraddha.
This beach is renowned for its natural spring. A dip in the holy waters at this beach is believed to purge the body of impurities and the soul of all sins; hence the name ‘Papanasam beach’. So yea, the best beach in Varkala, for everyone, remains Papanasam.
But I wonder how many people, including those of Indian origin, are privy to that detail.
Where tourism indeed has brought money and a whole lot of opportunities for the region, the triggered greed of a small minority and the impetuous actions of the community at large has resulted in a slow death of this place that local people were once familiar with.
That’s all about Varkala’s history and the impacts of tourism in this travel blog. Now let’s discuss a few practical travel tips for Varkala including popular tourist highlights and best time to travel to Varkala.
Places To Visit In Varkala
Now that you have decided to visit this place, let’s talk about some useful travel tips.
From beaches to lakes to temples, these are the top tourist activities and places to visit in Varkala.
Though there are more things to do, like enjoying a seaside dinner or trying a Kerala message, the spots mentioned below are all a must-visit.
Also, please note that they are all free things to do. If you want to know more about them, you can Google them. Also check this Kerala Travel Guide for a bit more on Varkala and other travel destinations around Kerala.
Now let’s begin with top tourist highlights in Varkala…
- Odayam Beach – a perfect beach for families
Located just a short walk from Varkala Cliff, Odayam Beach offers a calm and family-friendly atmosphere. The waters here are gentle, making it ideal for swimming and picnics. You’ll find a few homestays and cafés, but it’s never overcrowded. It’s the perfect place to unwind and watch local fishermen at work.
- Balimandapam – popular beach among Indian tourists
This beach is especially popular among Indian families and groups. You’ll often see people enjoying beach games, snacks, and local food stalls nearby. Though not as quiet as Odayam or Kappil, it offers a lively, local vibe. Great for those wanting to experience Varkala beyond the typical tourist crowd.
- Anchuthengu And Anjengo Fort – for history lovers
Built by the British East India Company in the 17th century, this fort is a must-visit for history enthusiasts. Surrounded by coconut groves and the sea, it offers a glimpse into Kerala’s colonial past. The nearby lighthouse adds to the charm. A great spot for photography and heritage lovers.
- Varkala Beach – popular among Western tourists
Also known as Papanasam Beach, it’s the heart of tourism in Varkala. Western travellers love it for sunbathing, surfing, and its vibrant café culture. The beach lies beneath the iconic red cliffs, creating a stunning natural contrast. Evenings here are lively, with music, street shops, and beachside dining.
- Sivagiri Mutt – for meditation and mental detox
Founded by the spiritual leader Sree Narayana Guru, this ashram is a peaceful retreat. Pilgrims visit to meditate and reflect, especially during the Sivagiri pilgrimage in December. The hilltop location adds a sense of serenity. It’s a perfect place for those seeking spiritual calm and mental detox.
- Kappil Beach – is slightly more offbeat than the rest
Slightly off the main tourist trail, Kappil Beach is where the backwaters meet the Arabian Sea. The setting is tranquil, ideal for couples or photographers. It’s less commercialized and perfect for long, quiet walks. The nearby Kappil Lake adds to its charm.
- Varkala Aquarium – just an aquarium
A small attraction that’s fun to visit if you’re traveling with kids. It features local marine species like puffer fish, lionfish, and seahorses. While not very large or high-tech, it gives a glimpse into the underwater world. A quick and easy stop between beaches.
- Janardana Swami Temple – because it cannot be missed
Over 2,000 years old, this temple is one of Varkala’s most significant religious landmarks. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it features intricate carvings and a peaceful atmosphere. Locals believe a dip in the nearby Papanasam waters washes away sins. It’s a must-visit for history and culture lovers.
- Varkala Cliff – to go for a swim. Full of Western tourists
The signature attraction of Varkala, lined with cafés, shops, and yoga retreats. From here, you can watch breathtaking sunsets or take the steps down to the beach for a swim. The vibe is youthful and bohemian, with a mix of travellers from around the world. Perfect for spending lazy days and lively nights.
- The Lighthouse – for photographers
Standing tall near Anjengo Fort, the lighthouse offers sweeping views of the coastline and coconut fields. Climbing to the top is worth it for the view alone. It’s a favorite among photographers. Visit during golden hour for the best light.
- Vishnu Temple – another popular temple in Varkala
Another sacred site in Varkala dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It’s known for its traditional Kerala-style architecture and peaceful surroundings. The temple attracts both devotees and architecture lovers. A calm stop for those exploring Varkala’s spiritual side.
- The Tunnel – for boating
Also called Varkala Tunnel, this historic waterway was built during British rule for transporting goods. Today, it’s a quiet spot where visitors can enjoy boating through the lush, scenic canal. The engineering of the tunnel is fascinating. Ideal for a short, peaceful excursion.
- Kaduvayil Juma Masjid – for architecture lovers
A prominent mosque admired for its stunning architecture and cultural importance. It’s an active place of worship surrounded by greenery. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome to appreciate its design from outside. A great place for those interested in Kerala’s diverse religious heritage.
- Kappil Lake – for a perfect sunset selfie
A serene backwater lake separated from the sea by a narrow stretch of land. You can rent a pedal boat or simply relax by the shore. The sunsets here are magical, reflecting beautifully on the still waters. One of Varkala’s best spots for photography.
- Edava Vettakkada Beach – another best places for sunset in Varkala
A quiet and scenic beach located north of Varkala. Known for its golden sand and peaceful sunsets, it’s perfect for solitude seekers. The beach is less commercial, offering a glimpse of rural Kerala life. Ideal for long walks or simply sitting and watching the sun dip into the sea.
- Saint Sebastian’s Pilgrim Church Moongode – just another church in Kerala
A charming little church typical of Kerala’s Christian heritage. It’s a peaceful place with a simple design and quiet surroundings. Often visited by local devotees. Worth a quick stop if you’re exploring the area.
- Janardhanaswamy Temple – one of the ancient temples in Varkala
One of the most ancient temples in Varkala, known for its sacred history and cultural relevance. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it’s often visited by both pilgrims and travellers. The temple’s annual festival draws large crowds. A must-visit to experience Varkala’s spiritual core.
Varkala-Hariharapuaram Lake For Backwaters Experience
One of the best experiences I had in Varkala is enjoying a similar backwaters experience I had in Alleppey. Though of course, I am not comparing and the backwaters in Alleppey offers a much deeper experience, for someone visiting Varkala wanting to have a taste of how it feels enjoying a boat-ride in the backwaters, the Hariparapuaram Lake is a place to be.
The half-an hour boat ride that costs less than 500 Rupees per person offers a beautiful experience and an introduction to Kerala backwaters. So don’t miss that.
You can see some of the clips of this experience I had in the Youtube video I’ve shared above.
Best Time To Travel Varkala
Since Kerala has tropical weather, it stays hot and humid pretty much the entire year. In the winter months, however, the weather is comparatively still okay. Having said that, the months of December, January and February is the best time to travel to Varkala.
But please note that better weather also triggers peak tourist season. Having said that it becomes a little hard to find cheap accommodation. So if you don’t want to spend heaps and are looking for budget travel tips for your holiday in this part of Kerala, I suggest you visit during the monsoon.
Though winter is the best time to travel to Varkala and monsoon is not as best, it saves you from paying the peak-season price for commodities. The greenery during monsoon season is moreover an added plus.
How To Travel
By Flight
If you are coming from one of the major towns in India, and wondering how to travel to Varkala, take a flight. The nearest airport will be in Trivandrum which is less than 50km. Flights from most domestic airports to Trivandrum cost about 3 to 7 thousand Rupees throughout the season.
Trivandrum to Varkala is less than 50 km and can be easily travelled on a bus or a taxi. It is less than an hour.
By Train
If you don’t want to fly, you can also travel on a train. The Varkala Sivalgiri Railway Station, station code VAK, is a major railway station in Kerala with good connectivity from across India. Most trains that go to Trivandrum (coming from North India) stop there.
If, however, you are coming from a nearby town like Trivandrum or Kochi, then the best way to travel to Varkala will be on a state bus. Travelling on a bus is less of a hassle than on a train for such a short journey.
If you want to read a similar story where another cultural town is being destroyed because of tourism, read my Rishikesh travel blog.
If you have a question or would like to connect, please find me on Instagram. You can also follow my YouTube channel for video updates.
